BMW airhead motorcycle clutch, flywheel, clutch carrier, throw-out bearing, cables,adjustments

32-73-1-230-041 cable is 1320 mm long, and the sheath portion is
1085 mm long
Here is an edited question and reply I did to the Airheads List:
Unless the clutch parts are pretty flat, you need to contact such asSouthland Clutch to machine your plate and make you a thickerdisc to compensate for that machining; or, you need to purchasenew parts. Many folks just replace the disc, and have to doa clutch job all over again, soon enough.
32-73-2-324-959 cable was used on R65 Euro, 86+RS is
1386 mm long NOTE: BMW clutch cables are lined with a plastic material. DO NOT OIL THEM. The ONE exception was the earliest /5 bikes, which came from the factory withOUT the nylon-like internal lining. Isuspect only a few low mileage /5 bikes are around thesedays with those cables. Aftermarket cables generally do NOT hold up, as they do not have such a lining. There
is a round factory tool to centralize the friction disc when assembling the clutch to theflywheel/carrier. However, your eyeball is good enough if careful.
3. Rotate the flywheel slowly in the NORMAL direction, which is CLOCKWISE as you face the flywheel
04/28/2013: Clarify a few details, remove some redundancies, clean up article, add hyperlink to the

should be21211338508.
Google ads arrangement; add language button.

11/04/2009: A few additional clarifications on R65/R45clutch bolts; and re-arrange article somewhat, it

The tool, overall, is
roughly 133 mm long; and the length is NOT in the slightest critical.In fact, hardly anything is critical. I do suggest making the 20.7 mm diameter, as shown in the sketch, reasonably close to that. Did you have the flywheel off, and now the engine has rotated, and you need to find out which crankshaft bolt holes and flywheel holes should line up?Clutch:
was excessivelygaudy.Repeating!:

Align the friction disc by eyeball or tool, and then torque, evenly, the clutch bolts. You will need somesort of long bolts and some spacers from the hardware store(unless you have the BMW tools), in order to get the pre-1981 clutch toassemble to the point you can use its original bolts. You don'tneed more than 3 or 4 of these long bolts...three will do, as theclutch has 6 normal bolts, and three can be spread at an even120...you will also need some spacers for them. Youinstall these long bolts evenly, criss-crossing while tighteningthem evenly, bit by bit, until the clutch is pulled together,only moderately. THEN you can install the original bolts,and torque them properly....one by one. For the 1981+clutch, replace the clutch bolts AND the specialvibration-proof washers.
valve. After the INTAKE valve closes,....continue to rotate in small amounts, shining a flashlight into the
the piston coming outwards. It does not matter which stroke you are on, just that the piston is fullyCables: Early /5/6....to 1974
had 10 mm flywheel bolts used on 93
tooth flywheels. There were two lengths installed. I will NOT
reuse them. Torque themto book specifications,
dry. The flywheel was 11-22-1-256-906.Rev:
Here is a hyperlink to my tools article:
TOOLS.htm In that article will be found information onclutch removal and assembly tools
32-73-2-324-958 cable is 1385 mm long, and the sheath portion is
1155 mm long

Grabby
clutch:
If your clutch is grabby, it can be due to a number of
causes. It is IMPORTANT that the transmission input shaft
splines be regularly lubricated. When they get dry shifting is stiff and poor and may be somewhat difficult to get from 2nd gear down to first gear, or just to engage 1st.
Never lube the disc spline, just the
transmission INPUT spline. Cleaning and re-lubrication should be done at a mileage and time commensuratewith your driving habits
and atmospheric conditions. Moisturecondenses on the shaft and with the in-out movement during operation of the clutch,and thewiping action of the essentially gear-like teeth under torque,all conspire to move the grease out of the splines. Late splineswere
nickel-plated, and hold up a bit better and longer, regarding lubrication. Spline wear, if not lubricated, can lead to spline failure, a $$$
situation;especially so on pre-nickel plated ones. I suggest a look-see andcleaning and lubrication of the
splines at 15,000 miles since
last cleaning and lubrication, and
then adjust the mileage for the next following time. NOTE
that end play
of the input shaft can
cause a
quite-grabby
clutch operation, and that can happen cold and/or hot. More
often when hot. To fix THAT, one must remove and open the
transmission and work on the shaft shimming. One can get an
idea if that is a problem by removing the transmission, heating
it to about
the temperature of boiling water, and measuring, with
a dial indicator, the input shaft end play. Anything over a
few thousandths of an
inch is suspect. This problem with
transmissions causing a grabby clutch is not overly common, but
it seems to be more so for the 1979 models.
Grabby clutches can also come from a somewhat rare problem, the crankshaft hasexcessive end play.
SEE THE
FLYWHEEL REMOVAL ARTICLE WHICH HASINFORMATION ON FIXING THAT PROBLEM.

03/28/2012: add note and hyperlink to my tools article.


disc alignment tool pdf.


10/27/2009: Clarify a few things, fix and add hyperlinks.
fully outwards, will be easy to rotate by your fingertips, and a double check is that both valves are fullyThe problem is that the clutch disc has frozen to theadjacent parts. You need to force theclutch to disengage.There are several methods, including pushing the bike, and shifting intosecond gear....etc. The adjustment at the lever at the back of the transmission sets thefree-play clearance at the BARS lever; and the adjustment of the outer cablesheath at the BARS lever setsthe adjustment at the lever at the back of the transmission. Youwant to end up with about 3 mm free play at the bars leverJUNCTION, that is, the outer angle of the lever to casting assembly. Shown in your owners booklet. When the bars leveris half-way through its actual pressure range, theclutch lever at the rear of the transmission should be PARALLELwith the transmission rear case. When you are done you should ALSOhave APPROXIMATELY 2 mmof free play at the lever at the transmission rear cover.
clutch tool.pdf
01/26/2008: all prior revisions incorporated, and much
added from old obsolete engineinternals.htm
(swing armarea, OR?), ....and have the rear wheel a bit off thesurface. HOLD the frontReturn to HOMEPAGE1. For pre-1981 clutches (some few 1980 had the later clutch with carrier):

closed.
At this point, I think it appropriate to caution that if your clutch operation becomes faulty in some way after the engine is fully heated-up, that the throwout bearing be checked to see if it fits OK, when the engine/transmission is hot from a reasonably long ride. It is also a possible problem with the engine being cold, if the piston has permanently expanded.



more rpm in first gear. At a convenient and safe time, suddenly pull in theclutch lever at All11 mm bolts up through PRE-clutch carrier models (came out in some 1980, but all 1981+): The
original good specification was: Torque these to 73
ftlbs. Threads were to be clean,
dry, NO Loctite used.
Now and then someone will complain that theirbike, after sitting, often for weeks or more, often in highhumidity areas, has a clutch that has failed. You can pull the lever back, it feels normal, but theclutch will not release, and if you put the engine intogear, the engine stalls.

WARNING about the clutch arm!
6. With the piston now fully outward, if the OT mark is not someplace IN the timing window, remove theBMW had a Service Information
bulletin (we call them SI's), November 1991, #11-049-91, sub number 2495, and this can also be seen on
the 12/92 fiche on
page 3, G23. Basically, it stated that while
the flywheel bolts were previously at ~75 foot-pounds (100 Nm),
theywere now to be at 90 foot-pounds (125 Nm), cleaned
threads, and then the threads were to be OILED! BMW specifically said that thebolt
limits would NOT reach their limit of elasticity at that torque,
and could be REUSED! I will NOT tighten them that tight. Makes mevery nervous! However, some do tighten them that tight, and I haveheard of no problems reported. It is YOUR CHOICE.
NOTE also that this is in regards to the 11 mm bolts, and applies
to 1981+ models....certainly notthe smaller /5 and early /6 10 mm bolts; which need replacement upon eachuse, which the 11 mm do not, and those 10 mm bolts in the /5 and early /6, areabsolutely not be torqued to such high values.

explanation would include it being less because the piston moves rather slower than those degrees

fonts, colors, emphasis.
06/24/2010: Clean up article some
transmission,and work on the clutch.
>>>The
1981 and later models have a lipped seal at the rear cover, not easily
replaced....the transmission must come apart.FIRST be sure the cable is routed properly, and tied down only once at the frame. That tie, which must be onlybarely moderately tight, should be located roughly
midway down the right side framedown-tube. There must be no broken cable strands. Theclutch lever at the bars should not have excessiveUP and DOWN play, and if it does, the nylon bushing IN THE BARS LEVERAREA needs replacing; and make sure the waverly washer IS in the lever depression area for it. BE SURE that with lever movement in anydirection (in-out, up-down)
the inner cable strands are
NOT being rubbed against by the clutch lever slot. Be SUREthe barrel rotates easily... lubricatethe barrel and the transmission ends
with moly grease.
NOTE: The 4 speed transmission and the early 5 speed transmissionclutch push rods had felts located in a groove, and are installed best from thefront. More, just below.Flywheels,
clutches, and their bolts: ***BreakingClutch cables often?....see below, under
Clutch Adjustment
NOTE: The 4 speed transmission had a balls type throw-out bearing; the 5 speed transmission (1974+) had a radial needle bearing type, and in 9/1980 BMW went back to the superior ball bearing, of a new design. Can you figure out why a radial needle bearing is a lousy choice?....think, then read the next paragraph.
If youwant to make
this tool:
09/04/2012: Add section on setting flywheel and crankshaft to correct alignment. Add QR code; change

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer(((thinking time...thinking time....)))
It was reported in May 2013 that a R100R with original "new type" piston assembly was seizing, and was repaired by sanding or turning the piston down on a lathe, slightly. This was the first instance I had heard of this. The R100R was the last version of the Airheads, produced into 1996.
Southland Clutch;
101 E. 18th St., National City, CA, 91950, (619) 477-2105, can
resurface all models of Airhead worn clutch parts and supply the
thicker
clutch disc that is needed after those operations.
Dan Levine. Dan@southlandclutch.comThe next adjustment is the bolt and its locking nut in the lever at the transmission. Adjust for 3 mm of free play at the bars lever. If you do not know how to do this: Loosen the adjustment at the transmission lever a fair amount. You can now move the handlebars lever easily, and if moved far enough, you meet goodly resistance from the clutch. The amount of 'easy' movement, with NO clutch action, is to be such that the lever opening is 3 mm.
(2) Warm up the engine, so it starts easily. Push the bike to the street. Start the bike inSee www.siebenrock.com
for more control cable information1978-1980 WITH emissions timing bikes had 11 mm flywheel bolts on 111 tooth flywheels. The flywheel
was 11-22-1-336-380
3273694 is 1469 with 1242 sheath, needs confirmation, believe was
used on R45/R65 with high bars.
The safest way for you to go would probably be this procedure:MISCL.:
clutch.htm
Recommended greases for the input splines are here:
chemicals.etc.htm

spark plug hole. You will see the piston come fully out, then reverse. The pushrods, piston at near or
might tell you, as the piston comes out and near OT (the piston rod is extended), but we can disregard

12/24/2012: Add paragraph on clutch wear dimensions.

3273957 is 1410 long, sheath 1180, used on R80, R100, Mystic

Article 60,
subsection 9

05/04/2008: Edit section on the plastic throwout bearing piston problems.

Copyright,2014, R. Fleischer
32-73-2-324-960 is 1625 mm and is on K1100LT
Here is a photo of all thefactory-type tools for the clutch:
ClutchFlywheelTools.jpg

bad late style in a R100R that was reported.BMW airhead motorcycle clutch, flywheel, clutch carrier, throw-out bearing,

does not let the clutch release immediately. If noluck at all, you will have to remove the
been
32-72-1-235-744"
/6 in 1975 and 1976 had 11 mm flywheel bolts on a 93
tooth flywheel. The flywheel as
11-22-1-262-070. 11 mm bolts were used on all later models.Pushrod; throw-out bearing;
lever at rear of transmission; cables (and problems with even brand-new ones);
the bars and hit the front and rearbrakes VERY HARD. Try this up to three times if it2. For the 1981+ clutches the adjustments are done a bit differently. The differenceis that the distance measured from the forward end (I think) of the barrel in the fork of the transmission-located lever, to transmission case where the cable comes through, shouldbe 201 mm. There are also factory books that say 201 to 203 mm. BMW was never really clear on what part of that barrel the measurement was to be from...rear edge? middle? forward edge. The sketches were not clear. I typically just use the forward part of the barrel. The TOP cable adjustment...yes, at the BARS, sets that 201 mm distance.

that here. We can also disregard using a dial indicator, etc.
Clutch Adjustment:
10/02/2011: minor clarifications (which I forgot to upload for months)
32-73-1-230-042 cable is 1460 mm long, and the sheath portion is
1225 mm long
STUCK CLUTCH.THE best fix: remove the old pin and clip and install
#23-13-1-241-484 pin that has a flange, and won't fly
out. This is used with a clip that is part
number 51-23-1-864-963.
7. You can skip removing the valve cover in step 1, and then skip step 3, if you feel OK about 'feeling' for

is easy to rotate.
Assembling the clutch:
brake! Start theengine in first gear. At some moderate rpm, suddenly give very hard
Below is a picture of a 1982 felt-less
clutch rod, the superior type ball bearing, piston with plastic outer, the internal
spring, a new rubber accordion cup, and the band-clamp. The
rod is about 9 inches long; the piston cup is about 17/32"
wide on the DARK plastic portion.The adjustment is not supposed to be exactly the same on all models. In practice, the new method will work OK for all Airhead Clutches. Iprefer to use the oldadjustment method for the early clutch. Thus, my recommendationsare below:

The radial needle bearing is a POOR design. When RADIAL needle bearings
are pressured (say, by a flat plate) and rotated circularly, the needles try to rotate at the same speed at BOTH ENDS of each needle....that is, from end to end of an individual needle. This is NOT POSSIBLE, if you think about it, so they scrape around....forcing the grease
out. If the grease (or transmission oil) is not there, and a littlemoisture condenses there, or excessive clutch hold-in
times areoften used ....and/or combinations of these things.....thebearing can start to deplete its lubrication, and actually freeze up.

It
has also been reported to me that BMW MAY have recently shipped all-plastic parts that have
the same old problems!
and,clutch cable problems
The reason the clutch levers are set this way is to ensure that thetransmission lever operates in the most efficient leverage position.
Trytwice. If no help, go to step (2):
Do NOT use a pencil, it could break.
enough! There is an explanation that could include the 72 per bolt hole which seems like a lot; but, a full
04/08/2012: Very minor clarifications on throw-out bearings. BMW has sometimes done a lousy job of farming out cable manufacture, for a long time now. Some BMW replacement cable barrels do not rotate smoothly...you should file them so they do. A more nasty problem is the top (at bars) crimped portion that do not fit the lever slot properly, and there can be interference and the cable will foul on the lever. BE SURE TO FIX THAT; use a fine not coarse file. Another problem (reported to me) has been MISMARKED CABLES....wrong lengths.



06/08/2012: Completely re-do the clutch levers adjustment area forclarity; clean up excessive use of

allow the starter motorto crank the engine). Ride the bike down thestreet at 5000 or
04/29/2011: Add more information, such as a link to thefactory clutch tools picture on this site, etc. NO


The tools are especially useful for the /5 clutch, but you do NOT NEED THE TOOLS. You can fashion something to hold any of the clutches from rotating while R/R bolts. You can use long cheap hardware store bolts and nuts to release the /5 clutch...etc.
from the rear. Watch as the left EXHAUST valve CLOSES. Rotate more and watch the left INTAKEDo these adjustments with the engine COOL. Make a tool out of a coat hangar or whatever, mark it "201mmtool for setting clutch lever at transmission". Almost anything willdo here. Some have gotten fancy and made a tool that fits over the end of the barrel in the transmission lever fork.
2. Place the flywheel into any bolt-hole positioning, lightly putting in a few bolts.
SOME 1980, and all 1981 and later bikes used Clutch Carriers,no longer are they called flywheels.
The ads above are Google-sponsored; clicking on them at every visit & looking at them helps support this website!As noted earlier....the
bearing is lubricated with transmission oil during operation; but
that takes time and miles after the throwout bearing
is installed;...so.... I always use a very
light
NON-moly grease when installing this bearing. NOTE ALSO that the "felt-less' clutch rods came in 1981.
Prior models of clutch
rod http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/accelerator-cable had a felt,
23-21-1-230-440, which is best installed on the rod, and the rod
inserted
from the FRONT of the transmission. It is possible
from the
rear, with a homemade tool, but I recommend against
it.

12/12/2012: Remove end play adjustment details, as is now in the flywheelremoval article, 60-2Stuck Clutch:
BMW Service Information
bulletin (we call them SI's), November 1991, #11-049-91, sub number 2495, and this can also be seen on the 12/92 fiche on
page 3, G23:: Basically, it stated that while
the flywheel bolts were previously at ~75 foot-pounds (100 Nm),
they were
now to be at 90 foot-pounds (125 Nm), cleaned
threads, and then the threads were to be OILED! BMW specifically said that the bolt limits would NOT reach their limit of elasticity at that torque,
and could be REUSED! I will NOT tighten them that tight. Makes me
very nervous! However, some do, and I haveheard of no problems reported. It is YOUR CHOICE.
NOTE also that this is in regards to the 11 mm bolts, and applies
to 1981+ models....certainly notthe smaller /5 and early /6 10 mm bolts; which need replacement upon eachuse, which the 11 mm do not, and those 10 mm bolts in the /5 and early /6, areabsolutely not be torqued to such high values. There have been a lot of different
specifications on flywheel bolts over the
years. There were two lengths of 10 mm bolts used. Iuse,
clean and dry, torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 and earlierengines; and for the 1974 I use 52-55 ftlbs; and 1975 http://www.anropa.co.za/ignition_leads.htm and later up to the 1981models, I use about 75 to 80 ftlbs. I use about 80 ftlbs, clean and drythreads, on 1981+.
06/16/2011: Add Stuck Clutch section, minor otherclarifications, quite minor
5. Some might use a round tip metal rod for 'feeling' the piston. Do NOT bugger-up the spark plug hole.
errorsfound. Strictly a clarification revision.During your assembly (don't forget previous information onmarking the parts and 120 assembly), I suggest you coat the edgeof the diaphragm spring where it touches the flywheel and thefingertips with thick moly grease/paste....not very much! This will help the spring fit properly and operate smoothly. Remember: just a tiny coating.HINT!.....The
early R65 and R45 had smaller clutches than the larger engines
did. The 1989 and 1980 had 6 x 1.00 mm
CLUTCH bolts. The amount to torque theclutch bolts to the flywheel
is NOT listed in early BMW literature; and is wrong in some laterliterature.
Thereis some confusion over this. BMW originally
had Allen head bolts, then later went to hex head
bolts. I suggest using the hex head bolts. Some published figures are as high as 17
foot-pounds for the clutch bolts (any style). That is WAY too high, even for
high strength bolts. I suggest 88 inch-pounds (7-1/2 foot-pounds), for the 1979-1980; and, use
clean, dry threads, then coat before assembly with a light
09/08/2011: Fix typo in part number for the early eightiesheavy-duty diaphragm spring; was 2121338508,There have been a lot of different
specifications on flywheel bolts over the
years. There were two http://www.anropa.co.za/ignition_leads.htm lengths of
10 mm bolts used. Iuse, clean and dry, torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 and earlierengines; and for the 1974 I use 52-55 ftlbs; and 1975 and later up to the 1981models, I use about 75 to 80 ftlbs. I use about 80 ftlbs, clean and drythreads, on 1981+.

06/28/2012: Clarify cable problems and clutchadjustment.Here is a major hint. This is NOT factory information. When you disassemble a clutch, for whatever reason, one of the things almost always done is to check the friction disc for thickness. This means from one side to the other. I do it near the outer edge, and at about 3/4 of the way to the center of the lining. Other checks are the spring (relaxed mode) height, and condition of the other parts in the clutch assembly. New friction discs are about 6 mm thickness (some variation, fractions of a mm, over the years. BMW says to replace the disc at 4.50 mm. On an Airhead, getting to the clutch is pretty easy, so whether or not to replace a disc at 5 mm or even a bit less, is a judgment call. If doing the work yourself, you might consider letting it go, so long as the clutch is not slipping in top gear with heavy throttle and goodly rpm, all of which are worst case. One of the big decisions, and this is the HINT, is what parts need replacing, if any, if the friction disc is going to be replaced. You may hear advice that the parts that push against the disc, on both sides, need replacing. But, how do you know? There are no specifications on the DISHING type of wear that IS one of the main reason to replace the parts (and deep scoring, etc.). Some of us know what works, and what does not, and we might check 'dishing' with feeler gauges on a precision flat surface. Here comes your hint!......measure the disc friction area near the outer edge, then in some, and then near the inner edge. Do this with a micrometer, not the wide jaws of a vernier caliper. If the thickness is pretty good for all three checks, you are VERY LIKELY not going to need the other clutch parts. How much difference? maybe 0.015 is about the max. If less than that as a variable, you probably can just replace the friction disc, only.
06/25/2012: Expand upon stuck clutch information
clutch carrier/flywheel,
bolts, crankshaft end play, adjustment of clutchlevers; informationI prefer to try these things first(and it can take two or three tries!):
My measurements are from the factory tool I have.
"" I removed the fly wheel at top dead center (OT mark in window) but when I
installed the seal with the installation tool I ended up rotating the crank.
How can I ensure that I am at top dead center so I can reinstall the fly wheel
correctly?""
outwards relatively closely.
direct link: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/flywheelremovalwarning.htm
Since you have the flywheel off, I certainly hope you have a crankshaft stop of some sort, at the alternator bolt. If you don't, you are in danger of doing major damage as you install the flywheel....so, do it...and hopefully the crank has not already moved forward. If you think it moved forward, see my article and the sketch from Tom Cutter....both are on my website. It is Article 60, sub-section 2

Here is a hyperlink to my tools article: TOOLS.htm In that article will be found information on clutch removal and assemblytools.(1) Garage try:put the bike on the center-stand, andjack the bike at the rear frame crossover
pressure with your rightfoot on the rear brake. That may force the clutch to release. Return to TechnicalArticles LIST Page
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/clutch.htm
Be sure that no matter what part you have in YOUR
bike, that it has not expanded and seizing up...measure the part...or feel the fit,transmission cold and when it is quite hot fromthe bike being ridden a decent distance, perhaps at a minimum, 20miles. EZ-Clutch (and variations): The pre-1981 clutches have a heavier pull at the bars, some dislike that, or cannot easily physically cope with it. There are several types of modifications to fix this, besides the HUGE expense of installing a 1981+ clutch with its necessary transmission work. Modifications involve a single pulley device
or a lever arrangement. One that is available for purchase
is from Craig Vechorik
('Vetch'), dba Bench Mark Works.
(662) 465-6444; located in the in the USA; www.benchmarkworks.com/articles/howto/clutch.html Bench Mark Works also has it available from their place in
Canada. There is also atype you could
build, that has some advantages over Craig's...as the original
cable end can be used. Here is a website with photos
to give you some ideas:
http://www.frankhams.freeserve.co.uk/temporary_uploads/ezclutch_page.htm
I am not much in favor of removing that crank stop (so as to turn the engine with the rotor bolt), because if you should then allow the crankshaft to move forward, you could be in a world of trouble.

04/16/2009: Clarify a few details. Re-arrange order of presentationof items.Earliest models, the /5 that
is, had the clutch actuating arm at the rear of the transmission
held to the transmission, via a cotter key. Very
reliable.
Later, but still rather early models,
had the clutch actuating lever at the rear of the transmission
held to the two bosses of the transmission cover by a PIN, that
used a single C clip. That C-clip fit on the pin at theINside
of the lower boss. If the C-clip came loose, the pin could come upwards, and come out of the lower boss, and the next clutch application could, and often did, break off a transmission boss ear...necessitating a transmission overhaul....or some inert gas welding at a minimum. Often this happened while you were shifting, going down the road, and not in your garage...and the ear was lost...so it got a bit more complicated if you HAD-to make an ear or HAD-to, or wanted-to, replace the rear cover. Replacing a rear cover means re-shimming the transmission; so you might as well overhaul it. Fixing the problem before it happens, can save you a HUGE amount of money:When the bars lever is not being touched, thetransmissionlever will be approximately 4 leaning AFT of the transmission rear cover. You may want to make a simple tool from a piece of coathanger marked for 201 mm, or?to check that 201 mm.Some use a machinist's small scale. Don't worry about the 4, just know that with #1 eyeball on the transmission lever, it IS to be slightly rear leaning.
3273959 is 1361 mm long, sheath is 1130. Needs
confirmation. Believe was on R45/R65
1. Remove the valve cover on the left cylinder and remove left and right cylinder spark plugs so the engine
flywheel and reposition it so OT is in the window.


FIRST GEAR (depending on model, you may have to pull inthe clutch lever at the bars to
>>>>>REFER toarticle onINPUT SPLINES Throwout http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/throttle-cables-off-road.html article, this is ahyperlink,for additional information!!!>>BMW has
had several versions of the throw-out parts, and offers a
replacement piston: 23-13-1-464-167, which is another, if somewhat costly, way of coping
with a sticky hot piston....and if your
old bearing is quite bad, and piston sticking when hot.....youcould consider this part, as it is a new design, andincorporates the bearing, and it supposedly has the proper diameter. If your old items are in good condition, you really do NOThave to spend the bucks....you can sand your piston outsidediameter. It has been said that there is a special surface coating on the piston, and sanding or otherwise machining is a bad idea. This IS NOT TRUE...sanding works fine, and lasts. Just do NOT remove too much material, or the piston could cant sideways. NOTE that at least one new-style piston has been reported as expanding and sticking!!!!!! ALSO, I have TWO reports that such as new-style piston expanded slightly andpermanently, and gave clutch problems with the transmissionbeing COLD. I personally have not seen this (yet).

4. Rotate the flywheel CW and CCW a small amount until the piston is fully outwards, eyeballing it is good/7 for 1977 through early 1978, NON-emissions timing bikes had11 mm flywheel bolts on 111
tooth flywheels. The flywheel was 11-22-1-263-788.

I have a LOT MORE information on various clutch cables, used with various bars,etc. The above may not be 100% accurate now.
amount
of Loctite BLUE. Itis possible that up to 10 foot-pounds is OK, but that would befor high grade bolts only. Any book figures you seethat say 17 foot-pounds,or 15 foot-pounds, is WRONG!
05/16/2013: Expand the section on throwout bearing parts, adding emphasis and an update due to a
The felt IS necessary on models prior to 1981, otherwise the
clutch disc can become oiled and thereby slip, and be ruined
eventually.
cables,adjustments32-73-2-324-956 cable is 1460 or 1495 mm long
and the sheath is 1285 mm long. This cable may have
on crankshaft end play spacers.
Preventing broken transmission clutch lever ears.